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wags83
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Good beer recipes

Postby wags83 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 8:34 am

Haven't brewed anything in about a year. Went to Midwest Supplies last night and picked up stuff for this recipe
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=168980
High Gravity Baltic Porter (Extract & Steeped Grain)

Recipe Volume: 5 gallons
Boil Volume: 3 gallons

Malts:
Muntons Dry Amber Malt Extract - 5.0 lbs.
Briess Liquid Munich Malt Extract - 6.0 lbs. (@ Knockout)
Crystal Malt (80 L) - 0.5 lbs. (Steeped 30 min. @ 160 F)
Black Patent Malt - 0.5 lbs. (Steeped 30 min. @ 160 F)
Chocolate Malt (350 L) - 0.5 lbs. (Steeped 30 min. @ 160 F)
CaraAroma Malt (120 L) - 0.5 lbs. (Steeped 30 min. @ 160 F)

Hops:
Perle - 2.0 oz - 8.5% - 60 min.
Mt. Hood - 0.5 oz - 5% - 20 min.
Mt. Hood - 0.5 oz - 5% - 5 min.

Calculated Boil Gravity (3 gal.): 1.081
Calculated Original Gravity (5 gal.): 1.091
Measured Original Gravity (5.5 gal.): 1.080
Calculated IBUs: 50

Fermentation Schedule:
Primary: 2-3 weeks @ 70 F
Secondary: 2 weeks @ 70 F

I was given a new yeast strain by a coworker who works in brewing equipment. It's supposed to be good for higher gravity beers and beers with alcohol content up to 12%. I made a really big stout last year and didn't get as good attenuation as I wanted from the yeast I used so hoping this strain will be better for a higher gravity beer. Depending what time we get home on Sunday, I might brew that day.
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Tyler
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 8:56 am

Sounds like a good recipe. I haven't brewed for a long time either. I need to check my inventory this fall/winter and get another batch going.

Brewing in a cold garage with the propane heater going is actually fun.
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tylersucks
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 8:59 am

Tyler wrote:Source of the post Sounds like a good recipe. I haven't brewed for a long time either. I need to check my inventory this fall/winter and get another batch going.

Brewing in a cold garage with the propane heater going is actually fun.

I assume both our last times was when we brewed our collaboration beer. Crosby/Glass Belgian Fruit Bier.
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:01 am

tylersucks wrote:Source of the post I assume both our last times was when we brewed our collaboration beer. Crosby/Glass Belgian Fruit Bier.

Yep, so that was over a year ago. I may have a few of those left, it was one of the better batches I've made.
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:02 am

I think the main problem I've had with homebrewing is the yeast. I have never done my own starters or anything and I think the packets always fall short, so you end up with that 'homebrew' beer taste that is always lingering. I found this product http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fast-pit ... it-2000-ml and I really want to try it for my next batch. I hope it changes things up a bit.
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:13 am

tylersucks wrote:Source of the post I think the main problem I've had with homebrewing is the yeast. I have never done my own starters or anything and I think the packets always fall short, so you end up with that 'homebrew' beer taste that is always lingering. I found this product http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fast-pit ... it-2000-ml and I really want to try it for my next batch. I hope it changes things up a bit.

I thought when we toured Confluence they said they would give you yeast if you asked for it.
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:16 am

WHY USE A STARTER?
The homebrewer has a few specific goals when making a yeast starter. Here are the key reasons to make a yeast
starter for better beer:
Increase Cell Count. Having a high pitching rate makes better beer.
Increase Cell Viability. Healthy yeast cells ferment quickly, produce minimal fermentation by-products,
attenuate fully (ferment to a proper final gravity), can ferment high-gravity worts, and have more tolerance for
high concentrations of alcohol.
Reach Full Attenuation. An insufficient amount of cells may ferment sluggishly or incompletely, especially in a
high-gravity or lager wort.
Shorten Lag and Growth / Respiration Phases. Reducing the duration of the lag and growth phases
minimizes the opportunity for wort contamination and the formation of fermentation byproducts.
Improve Beer Flavors and Aromas. Under-pitching creates stress—too much work for too few cells. Stressed
cells are more likely to create off-flavors or aromas in the finished beer.
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:17 am

Tyler wrote:Source of the post
tylersucks wrote:Source of the post I think the main problem I've had with homebrewing is the yeast. I have never done my own starters or anything and I think the packets always fall short, so you end up with that 'homebrew' beer taste that is always lingering. I found this product http://www.midwestsupplies.com/fast-pit ... it-2000-ml and I really want to try it for my next batch. I hope it changes things up a bit.

I thought when we toured Confluence they said they would give you yeast if you asked for it.

Did they? That would be cool. I'm sure those places have a lot of yeast. They re-use and make their own I think.
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:18 am

tylersucks wrote:Source of the post They re-use and make their own I think.

Yep, that's what they said. Way to pay attention and remember something from 2 years ago.
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Postby wags83 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:37 am

tylersucks wrote:Source of the post WHY USE A STARTER?
The homebrewer has a few specific goals when making a yeast starter. Here are the key reasons to make a yeast
starter for better beer:
Increase Cell Count. Having a high pitching rate makes better beer.
Increase Cell Viability. Healthy yeast cells ferment quickly, produce minimal fermentation by-products,
attenuate fully (ferment to a proper final gravity), can ferment high-gravity worts, and have more tolerance for
high concentrations of alcohol.
Reach Full Attenuation. An insufficient amount of cells may ferment sluggishly or incompletely, especially in a
high-gravity or lager wort.
Shorten Lag and Growth / Respiration Phases. Reducing the duration of the lag and growth phases
minimizes the opportunity for wort contamination and the formation of fermentation byproducts.
Improve Beer Flavors and Aromas. Under-pitching creates stress—too much work for too few cells. Stressed
cells are more likely to create off-flavors or aromas in the finished beer.

I'm not sure how you're supposed to do a yeast starter, but in the past when I've used a dry yeast I've boiled some water with a little bit of malt extract, let it cool, mix the yeast in and let it sit for a bit before pitching it.
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:42 am

wags83 wrote:Source of the post
tylersucks wrote:Source of the post WHY USE A STARTER?
The homebrewer has a few specific goals when making a yeast starter. Here are the key reasons to make a yeast
starter for better beer:
Increase Cell Count. Having a high pitching rate makes better beer.
Increase Cell Viability. Healthy yeast cells ferment quickly, produce minimal fermentation by-products,
attenuate fully (ferment to a proper final gravity), can ferment high-gravity worts, and have more tolerance for
high concentrations of alcohol.
Reach Full Attenuation. An insufficient amount of cells may ferment sluggishly or incompletely, especially in a
high-gravity or lager wort.
Shorten Lag and Growth / Respiration Phases. Reducing the duration of the lag and growth phases
minimizes the opportunity for wort contamination and the formation of fermentation byproducts.
Improve Beer Flavors and Aromas. Under-pitching creates stress—too much work for too few cells. Stressed
cells are more likely to create off-flavors or aromas in the finished beer.

I'm not sure how you're supposed to do a yeast starter, but in the past when I've used a dry yeast I've boiled some water with a little bit of malt extract, let it cool, mix the yeast in and let it sit for a bit before pitching it.

It used to look really time consuming and complex. now they have wort in cans and you just pour in a beaker and let sit overnight and it builds a starter. That is what I linked earlier. Seems like the way to go. I done dry yeast packets and the smack packs. I still dont think its enough cells for the stronger brews I tent to brew. The beer that Tyler and I brewed last was prolly the best that I've had from a homebrew standpoint.
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Tyler
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:53 am

tylersucks wrote:Source of the post The beer that Tyler and I brewed last was prolly the best that I've had from a homebrew standpoint.

It's because we used a new ingredient that we haven't used in the batches we've done alone.
Friendship.
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:53 am

Tyler wrote:Source of the post
tylersucks wrote:Source of the post The beer that Tyler and I brewed last was prolly the best that I've had from a homebrew standpoint.

It's because we used a new ingredient that we haven't used in the batches we've done alone.
Friendship.

:roll:
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Postby wags83 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:14 am

Hmmmm....just looked up some info on the yeast my coworker gave me and I don't know if it will be the best to use for this beer. It looks like it is supposed to be used more for re-fermentation and typically best for fruity beers. Not sure how good it will do in a porter. I'm sure it would perform just fine, I'm just worried about the taste.
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Postby wags83 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:24 am

How do you guys aerate your wort? I don't have any fancy equipment, I just stir/shake the hell out of it before pitching the yeast but sometimes I feel like that might not be enough and be a problem for attenuation.
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:29 am

wags83 wrote:Source of the post I just stir/shake the hell out of it

Same. You should try putting a paddle on a cordless drill.
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Postby wags83 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:38 am

Smart idea. I might have to do that.
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Postby tylersucks » Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:53 am

Tyler wrote:Source of the post
wags83 wrote:Source of the post I just stir/shake the hell out of it

Same. You should try putting a paddle on a cordless drill.

Like from a canoe?
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Postby Tyler » Thu Oct 13, 2016 11:02 am

tylersucks wrote:Source of the post Like from a canoe?

Do you have to turn everything into a joke? That obviously wouldn't work.
Has to be from a kayak.
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Postby wags83 » Thu Oct 13, 2016 3:04 pm

After much research, I've decided to go with Safale S-04 for my yeast in this batch.

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